Trickster Treat
About this episode
In our opinion, the best part of any quiche or pie is the crust . . . and this crust has it all—it’s flaky, crumbly, golden, and nutty. We’ve made this quiche for clients who are undergoing treatment and needed an alternative to white flour crusts, and everyone always loves it—you will too. You can make this quiche in advance and store it in the fridge to eat for several days. Just reheat it in the oven or toaster oven, and serve it with a small salad or soup, or have it on its own on those days when you can’t eat heavier meals. It’s perfect for breakfast, lunch, or dinner.
‘No other writer has charted – pitilessly for politicians but thrillingly for readers – the public and secret histories of his times’ Guardian
“Dressing” is the term used to describe a stuffing that is not baked inside a turkey or other roast. These squares will remind you of a holiday supper, with sausage, bacon, cranberry and hint of maple. They’re always a hit when I serve them.
It is time, my friends, for the most ridiculously awesome, ultimate vegan chocolate cake. Applause, please. Thank you. (I’m subtle, I know.) This cake is rich, moist, fudge-y, and super . . . what’s the word? . . . oh, chocolatey. That’s really the best word to describe it. This is no light and fluffy nonsense of a chocolate cake. This cake is really rich, and I promise you that no one will notice it’s vegan. I wouldn’t be surprised if non-vegans asked for the recipe, and then you can be all cool with your sweet self, and pass it along, and wink when you tell them it’s vegan.
I like to make a big batch of this and keep it in the fridge for when hunger strikes and the last thing I want to do is turn on the stove to boil water. (Tip:Make this in the morning!) Any vegetables work well here, and you can easily adapt this for any time of the year . . . you could even serve it hot. Although I would traditionally use rice noodles for this dish, it can be difficult to find brown rice noodles at mainstream grocery stores, so I opt for the whole-grain pasta instead. The sauce is a riff on peanut sauce, with ginger, lime, and maple syrup for sweetness. Although you can substitute peanut butter for the tahini, the latter is a healthier option.
Who doesn’t love blueberry muffins? These tasty little guys are one of our favorites at home and in the Bake Shoppe. It’s important to use wild blueberries for these. In fact, you should choose wild blueberries whenever possible because they have more than double the antioxidants of commercially farmed blueberries, and more flavor. So go wild!
You can fry your latkes in oil or butter or whatever you want. My festival of lights includes schmaltz, the generously delicious rendered fat from chicken skins. Schmaltz adds flavor, depth, and overall intensity to an already scrumptious dish. You can serve this with my mom’s applesauce recipe or with smoked salmon and caviar on top, which is next level.
For the legions who know Yotam Ottolenghi and Sami Tamimi’s restaurants as vegetable kingdoms, this line from their first cookbook may be a shocker: “If you ask someone if they’ve heard of Ottolenghi, the answer is often, ‘Yes, I know, it’s the place with the meringues.’ ”
This turned out to be a brilliant word-of-mouth marketing strategy as they were starting out. The front window of their first patisserie and deli in London displayed cascading tiers of pastries—at the top were always giant meringues, some rolled in craggy chopped pistachios, others spattered with raspberry purée. The meringues captivated passersby, perhaps because of their sheer enormity, but also their wildness of form: they weren’t perfectly piped, but swooped roughly, letting their inherent billows and peaks and cracks define each one a bit differently. Ottolenghi and Tamimi led the wave of perfectly imperfect food, of larger-than-life splatters and tumbling messes, food that is immediate and the opposite of untouchable—it begs to be torn to pieces.
Remember that Ottolenghi was a pastry chef first, and as such, making the meringues is not just wild but also quite clever. Typically, to make the egg white foam stable enough to hold up at such extreme size without collapsing, heating the sugar would be fairly commonplace. But rather than cooking a sugar syrup to a precise temperature to drizzle into the stiff egg whites (as in Italian meringue) or heating the egg white and sugar together over a water bath (as in Swiss meringue), he simply warms the sugar in a thin layer on a baking sheet until the edges start to just melt, before pouring it into the foamy whites and beating for 10 minutes. After drying the big swoopy things in a low oven for a very long time, the outsides shatter delicately, breaking away to a soft, marshmallowy core.