Grilled chicken made in the tradition of Khao Suan Kwang, a village in northeastern Thailand, is one of the most sought-after iterations of the preparation in the entire country. It’s not uncommon for people from other regions to take a trip to this small town just to experience it.
The dish looks deceptively simple, and first-timers are often disappointed that it’s indistinguishable from the grilled local free-range chickens sold by vendors in rural markets throughout Isan. The small, lanky cockerels—their feet menacingly cupping—are secured between partially split madan (Garcinia schomburgkiana) wood and cooked over the most rudimentary grill setup imaginable—one more likely to inspire derision than awe.
Starting at the bottom, you’ve got tao than, the traditional Thai portable clay grill. Sitting atop it is kalamang, a large, white enameled bowl (the type used in rural areas to wash clothes and bathe babies) with its bottom removed. The bottomless bowl is just shy of a foot tall and has a flared top. A metal grate rests atop the bowl, and the chicken cooks on the grate.
And, oh, it works well in creating grilled chicken with golden brown skin—smoky and deeply flavorful. The washing bowl creates a distance between the glowing coals at the bottom of the clay grill and the chicken, preventing flare-ups and maintaining moderate heat, which is conducive to better absorption of smoke. Unless you have all of the components for this setup, you’ll need to use a kettle grill, which works just fine.
I have chosen to pair the chicken with a spicy bamboo shoot salad (sup no mai) for a single simple reason: I love this pungent, flavorful Thai Lao salad. Being somewhat of an acquired taste, this classic warm salad is often overshadowed by som tam, its more internationally known papaya-based peer (a carrot version appears on page 58). To make a proper Isan bamboo shoot salad, you need to source the young bamboo shoots that come in a glass jar, with a label indicating the shoots are packed in the juice of bai yanang, the leaves of Tiliacora triandra, a plant native to mainland Southeast Asia. Most well-stocked grocery stores specializing in Southeast Asian ingredients and several online sources carry various brands of this imported product (Pantai and Maesri are great brands). You can use other types of unfermented bamboo products that are more widely available—be it those that come in long strips or in thin, rectangular pieces—but you’ll need to lower your expectations as well, as the results will be miles away from what the Thais recognize as a good Isan bamboo shoot salad.