Mango is the national fruit of India, and it would be an understatement to say that Indians love mangoes. In fact, Indians are obsessed with mangoes. During mango season, which is March through June, we eat them for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, and sometimes in between as a snack. And while we eat mangoes, we go into deep discussions about the virtues of mangoes and their varieties and where we will travel to get the next best box of mangoes. India produces 99 percent of the world’s mangoes yet exports only 1 percent. When mangoes first arrive in markets, the air is thick with the perfumy, sticky-sweet aroma. People mill excitedly, trying to decide which variety to buy. During the Muslim rule, all the emperors were misty-eyed about fruits from Central Asia, like grapes, melons, and peaches, yet each one of them, from Akbar to Shah Jahan, developed a profound love for the mango.
Every mango variety has a different use. As a child, kesar was my favorite. I would massage a ripe kesar in my hands until the pulp loosened into juice, then cut a hole at the top and start sucking the juice out. Totapuri, the shape of which reminds me of a parrot’s beak (tota in Hindi means “parrot”), with its firm, smooth pulp, is perfect in creamy desserts, and the Alphonso, known as the king of mangoes, arrives a little later and has a heady aroma and an unmistakable sweet flavor. Find the sweetest mangoes you can and make sure they are completely ripe before making this rice pudding recipe. A small yellow variety called the Ataulfo, which comes from Mexico, is my favorite mango here in the United States.