Stella Pak is the creative brain behind Noona Noodles, one of our favorite Korean noodle shops in New York City. Pak, a former magazine beauty editor (one of the cool ones), launched Noona (translation: “big sister”) in the busy Food Gallery 32 food court in the heart of Manhattan’s Koreatown in 2018, and she hasn’t looked back. Working with her mother, Byung-Sul Kim, Pak is helping pioneer the next generation of NYC’s Koreatown. While the noodles sold at Noona are versions of the classics like sujebi (dough flakes), jjamppong (wheat noodles in seafood broth), and ramyun, they are presented with an eye for bold flavors, possible internet viral takeoff in their naming (check the Frat Boy Ramen), and full deliciousness. We’ve taken many hard-core Korean food fans to Noona, and they’ve been blown away by Pak’s menu of noodles.
When we started talking to Pak about a recipe, we were taken back to her now-closed Hi Noona restaurant in the East Village. Walking in, you were greeted by a lineup of Korean wellness drinks and salads. We were instantly like, “Whoa, here’s the Korean Sweetgreen we’ve always hoped for.” Crisp salads with toasted rice, vegan mushroom bowls with kim, and smoothies made with the homeopathic multigrain powder misugaru. One of her items from that menu remains stuck in our heads. Jjolmyeon (chewy noodles) is as much a salad as a noodle dish, with crunchy julienned vegetables and hard-boiled eggs sitting on top of chilled wheat noodles. The “sweet heat” in the name is a tip to the sauce, which includes a full-bodied puree of pineapple followed by the heat from chile. If you cannot find jjolmyeon, substitute buckwheat noodles.