I love the simplicity of panna cotta. When done right, light and not too sweet, it’s an elegant end to a meal. I’ve toned down the sugar and added some buttermilk, which lends a subtly acidic edge that cuts through the richness. I’ve used elderflower, but chamomile flowers (either wild or from a teabag), lemon verbena and rose all work wonderfully. If you can’t get your hands on any of these, you can’t go wrong with good old vanilla. Usefully, this recipe can be made the day before you want to eat it. Two important points: first, don’t let the cream get too hot; you want it steaming but not bubbling to melt the sugar. Second, if you’re adding any of the soft fresh leaves or flowers mentioned above, add them toward the end with the buttermilk and gelatin so that they can slowly infuse and retain their freshness. Keep smelling and tasting the cream until you get the strength you want, then pass it through a sieve. But if you’re going with vanilla, spices or dried chamomile, I would add them to the cream from the start so that they release a good amount of flavor.