You don’t come across elderflowers at the markets in Paris, but one day when I was walking down the Avenue Trudaine, I spotted a huge elderflower tree in the traffic median! It’s illegal to forage in Paris, so I resisted picking them. But I couldn’t resist taking a sniff, and found the ones that managed to flourish between the several lanes of diesel-fueled cars and motorcycles differed from the “all of summer” fragrance the flowers usually have.
A few days later, I was at a friend’s house outside of town for a barbecue and noticed a spindly, flower-laden tree leaning against their house. “Ah . . . bon? Les sureaux?” they said when I asked if they were, indeed, elderflowers, before I sprinted over to get a closer look. Once my suspicions were confirmed, they gave me carte blanche (and a few big bags), and told me to pick away.
Elderflowers blossom in May or June. Do not rinse the flowers, because they’re delicate, and you’ll wash away some of the flavor. Any bits of debris or bugs should be gently picked or brushed off. To remove the flowers from the stems, run your fingers down the flower heads over a bowl; they’ll easily drop off.